Help me upgrade my deathtrap... I mean kettle

[CalmYourself]

Just finished brewing last night and tripped my houses electricity again. This can't go on. Here's what I'm talking about:



I've also had to replace the elements a couple times due to scorching:



So here's what I'm looking for:

1. I want to replace the kettle elements with some low density elements to prevent scorching
2. I want the elements to be connected in some well-insulated quick-connect way
3. I want more wattage than the current setup (2x 2400w elements) cos it took too long to bring to boil yesterday
4. I want to be able to put a diy temperature probe in there safely too
   

So, how would you guys go about upgrading this system and where would I get the parts?

Please note, I want to stay electric and ideally would like to remain the in current bucket as it's a beautiful size for big boils

*Edit: Added probe info

[masterbrewer]

(15-02-2010 06:59 AM)CalmYourself Wrote:  Just finished brewing last night and tripped my houses electricity again. This can't go on.

Who said homebrewing is not a dangerous hobby? You're lucky to be still alive!

See the attachment for the ideal element design. Contact Swift Heating and Control - http://www.swiftheat.com/pages/contact speak to Richard. These elements are less than R200 and one 2.5kw element is more than enough to boil 50L.

[CalmYourself]

(15-02-2010 07:33 AM)masterbrewer Wrote:  Who said homebrewing is not a dangerous hobby? You're lucky to be still alive!

Yep. Mine is definitely modelled after the ausie Bucket-o-doom.

Do they also sell some nice connectors for the elements? I don't want to have wires dangling from the bucket as they currently do.

2.5kw might be enough to boil 50l, but I'm too impatient and don't want to hang around that long for it to bring it to a boil. I'd rather have it come to the boil quickly and then turn off a couple of the elements just to maintain.

[masterbrewer]

These element have a 12mm thread on the end. I drill a 12mm hole through a isolator box and the wall of the boiler. Push the thread through both the wall of boiler and the box from the inside of the boiler, and tighten with a nut inside the box. This will provide a water tight seal between the boiler and the box. Use a grommet to take your cable through the wall of the box. Earth the element on the thread. Use at least 2,5mm cable. You will also find if you insulate the outside of your boiler (I use SPX33 or SPX45 closed cell foam), that one element might be enough.

[Silenus]

How long would you say it takes a 2.5kW element to boil 50L ?

Im with Calm on this one - the quicker the better. Ive seen 4kW elements at Builders. Im tempted to install two but current draw may be a problem +-18A each - my thermostats are only rated to 16A.

(15-02-2010 08:44 AM)masterbrewer Wrote:  These element have a 12mm thread on the end. I drill a 12mm hole through a isolator box and the wall of the boiler. Push the thread through both the wall of boiler and the box from the inside of the boiler, and tighten with a nut inside the box. This will provide a water tight seal between the boiler and the box. Use a grommet to take your cable through the wall of the box. Earth the element on the thread. Use at least 2,5mm cable. You will also find if you insulate the outside of your boiler (I use SPX33 or SPX45 closed cell foam), that one element might be enough.

[CalmYourself]

Update on the plan:

3x low density geyser elements installed almost exactly like MasterBrewer suggested.
1 of them on a manual switch (on/off)
Other 2 on a PID + SSR controlled isolator.

PID + SSR coming a little later... just as soon as I get back up to scratch with my PIC programming (it's part of a bigger upgrade + automation plan )